Yes. Yesterday. Sixty. Happy birthday to me!
And instead of doing nothing about it, did quite a something and it worked out.
2 months ago, in one of those rare instances of thinking ahead, I had tried to reserve a table for my birthday meal at Michel Bras’ restaurant up in the hills of Aubrac 2 hours north of Albi. It’s a place renowned for its sumptuous (but paradoxically, contemporary) setting, sumptuous food rooted deeply in the notion of terroir, and its 3 Michelin stars. A place to go before you die.
At the time, I was told that they were full up for lunch. (Damn!) I was told that I could be on the waiting list. (Well, umm, OK). Last week, I received a call from the resto, telling me that a table was mine. (Youpee!)
With 3 friends, Robin, Meredith, and Ann, we trundled up to Aubrac, heart of the Aveyron profonde. A tiny sign, easily missed, points to the path that leads up to the hilltop restaurant. The place is an interesting glass, stone and slate complex that looks out over the valley. Everything, including the valley itself, is lush and austere. It’s a combination that works.
We were greeted cordially then seated in a circular salon d’apéro where we were meant to settle down, have a drink, get happy, look at the menus, look out the glass wall that made up 100% of the large room, make serious decisions about what we were going to eat. Certain of the menus (called ‘carte fixe’ in frenglish, I believe) could only be ordered if everyone at the table ordered that particular menu. We all ordered the “Découverte & Nature” menu.
We were then ushered into the dining room, which was lush and modern. Comfortable. Muted. Another window wall, more fields of grass and valleys. It felt to me like no effort had been spared to swaddle the senses, put them, put oneself, into a sublime state of aisance, a necessary preamble to the meal we were about to have.
Then did the wonders commence. I didn’t take notes (hahaha! Does anyone take notes at a meal like this?) and my memory capacity is that of a 60 year-old, but here’s what I remember:
- an amuse-gueule of an egg and chanterelle soup served in a perfectly cut eggshell accompanied by a multigrain biscuit and onion tarte tatin. (We asked, they have a machine to cut eggs)
- The signature gargouillou, a plate of many, many vegetables, mostly cooked (lightly), arranged as a salad.
- a foie gras poelé, served with a few poached cherries and various sauces. I loved this, because I had “invented” the same dish last year, and got to compare my cooking to Michel Bras. (Ok, I have a lot to learn. But I also have a small staff.)
- the best piece of turbot that I have ever tasted.
- the second best slice of lamb that I’ve ever tasted, composed with little vegetables and edible wildflowers.
- a cebe, another signature dish, a braised sweet onion powdered with black Aubrac truffle.
- The largest cheese plateau I’ve ever seen, only local cheeses. But no disappointment there, aside from the fact that we were all feeling very well fed by now.
- A series of wonderful desserts, like angelica ice cream on a warm raspberry-filled sablé, and a few other sweets.
Service was perfect and unstuffy/friendly/helpful. Not at all what I would expect to expect from a reputed French restaurant. More happiness.
We were all up for a walk after this meal and lo! and behold, the hilltop around Michel Bras’ is scattered with marked walking trails through the beautiful countryside. It was the perfect way to wind down. At this point, I should mention negatives, make some critique of what they got wrong. But, darn, there was nothing to criticize here. A perfect 3-star experience on a memorable birthday with wonderful friends.
PS: Robin and Meredith gave me a birthday card that said, “A friend is someone who likes you even though they know you”. Which proves, at the very least, that they know me.
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